Ireland days 3 & 4

Tuesday June 7, 2011
We spent last night in Doolin, a quiet little town near that has become a tourist stop because of its perfect proximity to multiple natural or historical sights. It doesn’t feel touristy at all, unlike some “quaint” towns. We spent the day walking around the city and I bought a wool beret, or a “knitty”, as I found out it is called this morning. You can see it in my pictures as it figures prominently in all of them since it probably not be coming off my head for the next two weeks.
The evening was particularly lovely. We all stopped in at O’Conners pub (which was the pub that tourists generally do not frequent) where it was music night. It was packed with people, parents and toddlers, young people, older people, everybody, all with a glass of beer (often Guinness) in hand. There was a small section in the center of the pub directly in front of the bar where a small group of musicians (a harpist, a flautist, a banjo player, and a harpist) were sitting around a table filled with half-finished drinks and different musical apparatus, playing with all their might. Everyone was milling around getting their food and drinks but were all still listening and engaging with the music and the players. It was a lovely evening. I myself had my first full glass on Guinness (albeit, a pretty small one) which turned out to be my dinner, since I forgot about ordering food until I got back to my hotel. In my defense, it is a pretty filling beer.
The hot shower and queen size bed were pure heaven. So far, our hotels are fabulous. I’m writing this from Galway where we arrived around 4 o’clock this afternoon.
After we left Doolin, we drove to a cairn, which is a common-burial ground, in were placed cremated remains of multiple people which were then topped with a mound of rocks. This one, in the middle of the flat and rocky Burren, was special because it was topped with a Dolmen, which means “passage,” hence these types of structures are called Passage Tombs. These tombs are so old that they figure in Celtic mythology as the portals into the underground world of the Tuatha de Dannan, the fairy race, where they lived after the humans defeated them and drove them out of Ireland.
From there, we drove to Coole Park, the estate of Lady Gregory who was an influential figure in the Celtic Revival. She translated and compiled manuscripts of the Irish myths, most famous Gods and Fighting Men which chronicles the life of Finn and the Finians (the Fenian Cycle of the mythology). Yeats as another important writer for the Revival spent much of his time at Coole Park along with other great revival-minded people. There is a huge tree in the garden-grounds of the estate called the “Autograph Tree” where Yeats and other writers carved their initials. The trunk itself has to be gated-around now to keep people from carving their own graffiti on it, which I think is a shame, but beneath the massive, spreading bows is like a small, greenish-purple cave. So tranquil and peaceful.
After Coole, we bussed on the Galway where we’ll be for the next 3 days. It took us about drove about an hour and we arrived at our hotel in the midafternoon. The hotel, again, is lovely. And we have free Wi-fi which I always look on as a super luxury. Our driver, Nigel, recommended to me a pub to get fish and chips for dinner so after settling in, we all headed to the city center (literally 200 yards for our hotel) and set to walking. There is a long stretch of pedestrianized street, called The Keys, I believe, filled with shops and street performers and pubs. After finding our dinner spot and eating, we stopped at a pub and got a round of Guinnesses and listened to the musicians inside. After about 30 minutes there and waiting out a rainstorm we found a really great street band, who ironically turned out to be from Portland, OR, and after listening to their street show, we followed them to the next pub at which they were performing. We stayed there til nine listening then hopped over to a pub closer to our hotel for open-mic night where Charles performed an awesome set for everyone. Since it doesn’t get dark here until like 10:00pm, it throws the body’s time table off so its really easy to stay up super late and feel fine. I left the pub and walked the 200 feet to our hotel around midnight and shower, blogged a bit, was able to catch Nick on skype and didn’t fall asleep til around 2:00 am. The next morning was rough, needless to say.

Wednesday June 8, 2011

This morning we headed to the Aran Islands via ferry. The crossing tok about 40 minutes and was great. Charles, Drew and I along with Dr. Kelly and Maggie stayed on the open top of the ferry in the cold wind and the spray. It really was great/invigorating/freezing/the right way you should ride a ferry in Ireland. The water is startlingly cerulean-blue and clear. I did not expect it at all, but it is stunning. Once we got to Innismore (the largest of the three Aran islands) we walked up the harbor-side road and met our tourbus that would take us around the island. Our delightfully witty driver told us about the island and its history and inhabitants while we wended our way up to Dunn Angus (which I will get to in a minute). Innismore has about 900 inhabitants, about 860 of whom were born on the island (our driver among them). The main industries are fishing and tourism, with farming being sort of a hobby now. The land is all subdivided into small, dry-walled fields that contain mostly cows who simply feed off the grass that grows naturally. The people on the island use no pesticides or hormones on their animals or their gardens so everything produced is 100% organic. They can keep their smalls gardens growing and their cattle in the fields year-round because they never get frost or snow even in the winter because of certain weather currents, although they will get winds strong enough to knock you off your feet.
We arrived at Dunn Angus which has been supposed to be a fort on the cliffs of the island, but is now thought to have been used more for religious services. Honestly, it would have been pretty idiotic for any invaders to have even tried to attack this place, as you can see from the pictures that I will try to post on the blog, if I can.
I have seen many beautiful places in my life, but I can honestly say that Innismore has topped them all. Once we trekked the 20-minute climb to the fort, we were met with the most breath-taking scenery I have ever seen in my entire life. The 3-walled fort made of drystone walling is in a vast semicircular pattern, the end of which is not another wall, but instead is it open to the sea. The walls are built directly up to the edge of the cliff with the entire side of the structure that is facing the sea open, protected from invaders or encouraging to spiritual worship by the 300 meter cliffs that fall away below to the crashing surf. I have never seen a more staggering, awe-inspiring place in my life. The entire inside of the fort is carpeted in grass, not stone like in other places I’ve been, and it gives the place an air of grandeur, serenity and peace.
After we eat lunch inside Dunn Angus, we trekked back down the mountain and Julie and I stopped for tea again. The Earl Grey was not a strong as I like it, but the cute, flowered tea service it was served in more than made up for it. After Drew finally caved and bought is awesome Aran wool weater, we got back on the bus for a drive to a ruined monastery right on the coast of the island. On the island, families will all be buried in a single burial plot with all the names recorded on the headstone above them. This graveyard was full of such plots, but a more beautiful place for the peoples of the Arans to have worshiped or to be buried could be be found anywhere. I have never seen a place like this. The water all around the island is the clear, aqua blue of the harbor and the waves lashed up by the fierce wind whips the water into whitecaps you can see for miles. The effect in so peaceful.
After this we returned to the little city center and shopped around in the woolen shop there. Three more people bought hats so that before long, we will have an entirely newly-hatted people. Pictures to follow, I am sure. Another stop of tea and a hour or so wait for the ferry finished our day on Innismore. On the ferry ride home, however, we had a surprise ending when the Irish Coast Guard made an unexpected appearance to practice depositing a rescuer on a moving vessel. We all watched and cheered him on while he waved proudly back as he was hoisted up and down. Quite impressive.
And that was the end of today’s events. We all have decided to split pizza tonight and hang out and eat in Julie’s and my room to save ourselves some money. Tomorrow is a free day here in Galway so we have no set schedule. This has been my favorite day so far, hands down, and my favorite place. And its only day three!